While a lot of the Alheit project focuses on inland heat, Nautical Dawn is all about the Atlantic. Sourced from a single granite hill in Firgrove, just 4km from the ocean, these vines are constantly battered by the sea breeze. Chris and Suzaan Alheit have a knack for finding these extreme sites where the vines have to struggle, resulting in wines with immense energy.

The 2022 release is particularly concentrated. It was fermented naturally in a mix of cement eggs and old barrels, staying on the lees for a year to build mid-palate weight. The winemakers avoid any tricks here, letting the maritime site and the granite soils do all the heavy lifting.

This is bracingly fresh. It smells of lime zest and crushed shells, with a palate loaded with saline yellow fruit. There is a great “crunch” to the texture that makes it incredibly food-friendly. It is a world-class white with a massive following, and our small allocation never lasts long.

98 points
“a Chenin Blane that supersedes its vintage with steely intensity, lots of stony minerality, notes of kelp and sea salt, lemon and lime fruit and a savoury, umami-like finish.”
– Tim Atkin MW (Vinous)